Backyard Ponds
A pond or water garden will likely become the focal point
for all your
backyard conservation. Backyard ponds and water gardens are for birds, butterflies,
frogs,
fish, and you and your family. These ponds are typically
small,
sometimes no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter. They may
be built in
barrels or other patio containers. Water is effective in
drawing wildlife
to your backyard. It is also a natural, relaxing, and scenic
addition that
can provide interest and enjoyment. Where to put a backyard pond Consider locating your backyard pond where you can see it
from a
deck or patio. Have it blend in with its natural
surroundings. Elevate
the soil around the pond slightly so that excess water will
flow away
from the pond, not into it. Make sure that any drainage from
the pond
is away from your house. Plan to landscape around the pond
to
provide habitat for frogs and birds that need land and
water. If you
plan to use a pump to re-circulate water, use a filter, or
light the area,
be sure electrical service is available. There will be less
maintenance if
your pond is not under trees. Most aquatic plants will grow
better in
full sun. If you do not have space in your yard for a built-in earthen
pond,
consider a "tub" pond or large water bowls. These can be
placed on
the patio and provide many of the same benefits as a
built-in pond.
There are numerous tub kits available that can be as simple
as adding
water, a pump, and some plants. They can also be moved
inside in the
winter as long as good lighting is provided for plants.
Pond liners Pond liners keep water from seeping into the soil. Even in
heavy clay
soils, a liner is necessary. You can buy rigid pond liners
in a variety of
shapes. These are durable and may include built-in
waterfalls. Many
are quite small. If you want a larger pool or would like to
design your
own shape, consider using a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) liner.
Use a liner
specifically designed for pools. While other plastics
initially may be
cheaper, many are not resistant to ultraviolet light and
will break down
quickly. Some plastics may also be toxic to fish. Liners
also come in
different thicknesses. A thicker liner tends to be more
resistant to
punctures. While expensive and requiring more expertise to
install,
cement is also an option as a pool liner. If you use PVC, you will need to get a liner large enough
for your pool.
To determine how large a piece you will need, determine the
maximum
width, length, and depth of your pond. Multiply the maximum
depth by
3. Then add this number to both the length and width. This
will allow
enough plastic to be securely held down around all pond
edges. Installing the pond You can put in a backyard pond anytime the ground is not
frozen or
overly wet. If using a pre-formed liner, dig a hole to the
correct depth
and slightly wider. Insert the liner, making sure it is
level and sits
securely in the ground. Backfill around the sides. Add
water, pump,
and plants. Complete landscaping around the pool.
If you use a PVC liner, plan on at least a weekend to
install and
landscape. Steps to install a pond with a PVC liner: Decide on your pond's location. Using a hose or rope, lay out the shape of your pond on the
ground. Once you are happy with the shape, start digging. Stockpile
your
topsoil so you can use it to landscape around your pond. Plan for part of your pond being at least 18 to 24 inches
deep; 24 to
36 inches is even better. This will allow for a greater
diversity of plants
and fish to live in the pond. You may want to make tiers
around the
inside of the pond at various depths on which to place pots
of different
aquatic plants.
Make tiers about 12 inches wide to
accommodate the
pots. Remove any rocks from the excavated area. To help prevent punctures in the plastic, put a one-inch
layer of damp
sand on the bottom of the excavated area. Spread the plastic liner over the hole. Let it sag gently in
the hole. Place a few rocks or bricks around the edge to hold in
place. Slowly start filling your pond. The weight of the water will
help smooth
out the liner. Remove rocks holding the edges to allow liner
to conform
to the edges of the hole. Smooth out wrinkles but do not
pull too
tightly. You can walk on the liner if you remove your shoes. Finish off the pond by placing rocks around the edge to
securely hold
the liner in place. Install pump and filter, if desired. Many smaller pumps have
a built-in
filter. For larger pools, a separate pump and filter may be
necessary.
Make sure the filter and pump are adequate for the volume of
water in
your pond. Pumps not only add interest, but are important in
adding
oxygen to the water. If you want a fountain or waterfall in
your pond,
you will need a pump to circulate the water. Let the pond sit for a few days before adding fish and
plants. This
allows chlorine to evaporate from the water. Chemicals are
also
available that will quickly neutralize chlorine and other
harmful
compounds. Place plants at various depths and add fish.
Establishing plants For ponds, consider a mix of emergent, submergent, and
floating
species. Emergent plants, those that have their roots in the
water but
their shoots above water, can be added to the margins of
pools. These
include cattails (Typha spp.), arrowhead (Sagittaria spp.),
and water
lilies (Nymphaea spp.). Submergent species, or those that
remain
under water such as elodea, are often used as oxygenators.
These are
plants that remove carbon dioxide from the water and add
oxygen.
These plants are essential in most ponds to keep the water
clear.
Floating species or those that are not anchored at all in
the pond
include plants such as duckweed (Lemna minor), water lettuce
(Pistia
stratiotes), and water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes).
While attractive,
water hyacinth and water lettuce can be serious weed
problems in the
south; however, since they are not winter hardy, there is no
problem
with them spreading in northern climates.
While not as effective as oxygenators, these plants help
keep the
water clear by limiting the amount of sunlight that algae
receive. In
tiny ponds created in barrels and similar containers, these
plants may
be adequate to maintain clear water. Choosing and establishing plants for ponds Consider the following when selecting plants. How deep is the water? This will be a factor in establishing
plants and
their survival over winter if you live in colder regions.
Some species
need a minimum depth of 2 to 3 feet to grow well. Is your pond permanently installed in the ground or is it a
small tub
that will be moved inside in the winter? In this case, even
tropical
plants may be an option. Will you drain your pond in the winter? If you intend to
drain your
pond, you should consider plants that can spend the winter
in a
basement in a dormant state. How much sunlight does your pond receive? How large is your pond? If your pond is small, consider
dwarf species.
Purchase plants from a reliable vendor. Remember to include
some
oxygenator plants such as elodea. Emergent and submergent plants should be planted into pots.
A wide
assortment of pots is available, from plastic baskets to
pulp planters. Choose pots that are large enough for your plants. If using baskets with numerous perforations, line the basket
with
burlap or 2 layers of newspaper to keep the soil from
falling out of the
holes. Fill the container about half full with a mixture of good
garden topsoil.
Do not use potting mixes or peat moss. These are too light
and will
float out of the pot. Adding aquatic plant fertilizer to
this bottom layer
of soil is recommended for some species. Follow directions
on the label
for amount. Place the plant on top of the soil and fill the container
with topsoil
within one inch of the top. When planting water lily rhizomes, make a mound of soil in
the middle
of the pot. Place the rhizome at a 45 degree angle. The
crown of the
rhizome should be toward the center of the pot. Cover the
roots with
soil, but not the crown. In all cases, add a layer of gravel to the top of the pot.
This will help
keep the soil from floating out and prevent fish from
digging in the
soil. Slowly place the pots in the pool to keep soil from floating
out. Place
pots on bricks to get the desired height. Floating species can be placed directly into the pond with
no other
care needed. Plants should cover 50 to 70 percent of the water surface.
Native
plants usually do not need fertilizer. For some exotic water
lilies,
limited fertilizing once yearly may be required. Check with
your
nursery on care of plants and how deep to place potted
plants. Be
aware that over fertilizing may cause unwanted algae blooms
which
can rob the water of oxygen. Add fish and scavengers Consider stocking your backyard pond with native fish. They
are fun to
watch and help keep the pond free of unwanted insects. Most
small
ponds will warm up quickly in the summer, so make sure you
stock
with fish that can tolerate elevated temperatures. You'll also need scavengers, such as aquatic snails and
tadpoles, to
help control algae. In cold climates, a heater may be
necessary for fish
to survive the winter. However, this uses a significant
amount of
electricity and, in most cases, probably is not justified. A
better option
may be to set up an indoor aquarium in which to "over winter"
fish and
plants. Maintenance Algae is a common problem in many newly established ponds.
The
water often becomes an unsightly green after a few days.
While your
first instinct is to drain the pond and start over, this
only prolongs the
problem. Once a pond is "balanced," algae usually are kept
at an
acceptable level. A balanced pond is one in which the
nutrients are at
the appropriate level for the plants present. Excess
nutrients and light
are needed for algae. Reducing the nutrients and decreasing
the
amount of light entering the water will help reduce algae.
Floating
plants or those with broad leaves such as water lilies will
help reduce
the amount of light available for algae and compete for
available
nutrients. Scavengers such as snails will help clean up
wastes from the
bottom of the pond. Pond filters can help reduce algae, but require maintenance.
Filters
need to be cleaned frequently if algae is a problem.
Chemicals can also
be used to control algae. Use cautiously as they can be
toxic to other
plants and aquatic life. The need for algaecides should
decrease as
plants become established. Excessive plant growth, especially of free-floating plants,
may be a
problem. Periodically skim off excess growth of duckweed,
water
lettuce, and other floating plants. Monthly, prune dying
plant material.
Clean out some of the decaying plant material that has
accumulated in
the bottom of the pond in the spring. Remember: a natural
pond is not
a swimming pool and too much cleaning can do more harm than
good. Safety Locate the backyard pond where it is unlikely to attract
unattended children. Check local safety ordinances to
determine if
a fence is required for the specific depth and size of your
pond. Check local building ordinances for depth and safety
restrictions
and permits. Equip outdoor outlets with a ground-fault
circuit
interrupter. Unplug the pump before cleaning the filter. |
